 | Floor / Trolley Jack |
| Axle Stands or Ramps |
| 6mm Allen Key |
| 6mm and 10mm in-hex 3/4" drive sockets |
| 10mm and 12mm 3/4" drive sockets |
| 3/4" drive universal joint and various extensions |
| Small ratchet with 3/4" drive |
| Torque Wrench with adapter for 3/4" |
| Long flat bladed screwdriver |
| Small ratchet with 3/4" drive |
| Click the Thumbnails below for larger images | Raise the car and remove the engine cover (10mm bolts). I backed the car onto some shallow ramps I made out of wood, because my trolley jack will not fit under the car otherwise (it's pretty low!). |
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Raise the car enough to slide underneath the engine and support it with axle stands. I made a wooden brace that supported the bottom of the engine to use with my trolley jack, so I could lift the car on the bottom of the engine. |
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For a UK RHD car, all the work is on the driver's side of the car. Remove the drive shaft from the diff/gearbox by unscrewing the six 6mm in-hex bolts, lift the shaft and tie it out of the way. The rubber boot makes this a bit more difficult, so the universal joint may come in handy here. |
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Remove the clutch slave cylinder from the bottom of the gearbox (two 13mm nuts) along with the engine cover bracket (same two nuts). Remove the two 13mm nuts holding the upper engine cover bracket that the hydraulic lines are attached to. |
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Unscrew the jubilee clips holding the heater hose, and remove the hose. You can now see the bottom 10mm in-hex nut of the starter motor. Loosen this bottom nut using the universal joint and torque wrench. |
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Remove the cables from the top of the starter (Red and heavy black from the larger terminal with the 13mm nut, and smaller yellow with the 10mm nut). |
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OK - Now for the hardest part. You need to get the 10mm in-hex socket (together with the universal joint and a small extension - about 3") onto the back nut of the starter. You can only do this by feel - you will not be able to see the nut! Once seated in the nut, attach your small ratchet and undo the rear nut and remove. This took me about 20 mins, just to get the socket on properly, and undo the nut. Some others have used a 10mm Allen key with the bent end ground off, and then a 10mm ratchet spanner over the end. |
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You can now remove both 10mm in-hex nuts and lower the top of the starter. There isn't much room, so you need to drop the end of the starter down towards the clutch slave cylinder, moving the engine cover bracket and slave cylinder enough to get the drive end of the starter out of the hole in the bell housing. Be careful with the hydraulic lines to the slave cylinder. |
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That's it - your starter is out! You could have already purchased a replacement, in which case you can now install. In my case I took the old starter to an auto electricians who re-conditioned it for me for a fraction of the cost of a new one. |
