Bits and Pieces

A couple of annoying but common problems solved with the help of Mark Schettenhelm.

Replacing the Rear Spoiler Wall

The Rear Spoiler Wall will often crack at the joint with age.  This can be repaired successfully with black duck tape, but if you want to replace it, it is easy to do.  I did not have to dissemble the spoiler to do it.  I’m not a mechanic this is just my experience.  The part number for the wall is 993.512.121.00.

  1. Raise the spoiler all the way up.
  2. Use a thin bladed screwdriver to separate the top edge of the wall from the spoiler.  If you look carefully you will see the gap where you can insert your screwdriver.  Start on one end and give the screwdriver a twist.  The wall will start to snap out and you just have to slowly continue prying down to the other end.
  3. The bottom half has a channel that fits around a rod.  You can see it if you look at the inside lower edge of the wall.  Take a flat screwdriver and start to pry it off the rod.  It will make a snap sound, but don’t worry; you want to remove it anyway.  You should be able to get some of one of the ends free.  Then start working it over until you get to the other side.  When the screwdriver can’t reach anymore you can use your fingers to slip it off by reaching under the edge.  You will be able to feel the wall and the rod and be able to continue to move them apart.  Once it is out of the channel, you will have to rotate the top edge inward a bit then lift the wall out.  This will let the tabs in the middle of each end get free, to see them look at your new wall and you will see what I mean.
  4. I started the installation with the bottom, it seemed like it would be easier that way.  I first slid the wall in and made sure the tabs were hooked correctly, then I began snapping the bottom edge in place starting at one side and working to the other.  Once you get it started it will be very easy to continue to snap it in place.
  5. To put the top in place I felt like I needed a little slack so I retracted the spoiler just a bit.  This part is very easy.  You start on one end and put the edges together.  Then get a thin flat blade screwdriver to push it into place.  What I did was stick my head upside down under the spoiler so I could see the channel that is on the underside of the wall.  That is where you can put the screwdriver to snap it up and in place.  I would look under to make sure I had the right position and then pull my head out to look at the backside.  Then I could see if it was snapping into place.  I continued this process across the wall until I was done.
  6. Run the spoiler up and down a few times to make sure you have it right.

Replacing the hood shocks on a 964

Replacing your sagging hood shocks is a lot easier than it looks.  It was a job I avoided because I was worried about the access, I now wish I had done it sooner.  Before you start make sure you have a way to prop up the hood.  When you release a shock the hood will suddenly become very heavy and it will be difficult to hold up and complete the installation.  I would recommend getting someone to help you since it should only take a few minutes to do the job.  Get a flashlight; a long handled flat blade screwdriver, a smaller flat blade screwdriver and some needle nose pliers and regular pliers.  I’m not a mechanic this is just my experience.

  1. You could start the removal of an old shock on either end, but I chose to start with the bottom first.  I reasoned that if I removed the top first then released the bottom; I could drop the old shock, it was nice to have it attached at the top.  To unclip the bottom end all you have to do is take your flashlight and aim down at the attachment point.  While your assistant is holding the hood, position the blade between the shock and the ball attachment.  I gave it a good twist with my wrist and it popped off.  If you aren’t positioned right it may take a few tries, but I was able to get them to pop off.  A thick blade screwdriver might be useful here.
  2. To remove the top part I used a small flat blade screwdriver and the needle nose pliers to pry off the clip that holds the pin in place.  It should come off by slowly prying it away.  Once this is free (if you drop it you can probably get it with a magnetic pick up, I never dropped one although I could see how it might happen), you can use a pair of pliers on the pin to twist it out.  I may help to have your assistant wiggle the hood a little.
  3. For some reason I put the new ones on starting with the bottom, but I am not sure it would matter.  I got my flashlight and put the shock down on the ball, and snapped it into place.  It wasn’t a problem to snap it in on either side.  In fact I was surprised when I reached down and just snapped it on.  One piece of advice - before you snap the shock in place, make sure the opposite (pin) end is near the receiving hole attached to the hood.  I had the shock on the other side of the wall from the hole and it took some movement of the hood to get it on the other side.  Save yourself some time and have it in the right place on top.  When you look at it you will see what I mean.
  4. To finish, position the shock to line up the hole and put the pin in.  I lubed it a bit to make it slide in easier.  Then slide the retainer clip in place and you are done with that side.

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