Bob is one of the 911 & Porsche World Running Reports contributors.  He has been writing running reports since 1998.  Please find them below in chronological order.

Bob Krantz's (Sub)Artic Adventure

Bob has also written a piece on his 2,000 miles round trip into the Artic in the summer of 2000.  Click the glacier for his story and photos.
 

Bob's Running Reports

Running Report 1 - November 1998

As this is my first report, perhaps a brief introduction is in order. I live in Anchorage, Alaska and work as a petroleum geologist for a major oil company. I took a transfer here from Dallas, Texas about a year ago, and though I enjoy the setting and even the climate, I still need to adjust my motoring expectations. The summer season is short, but packed with Porsche Club autocrosses (gymkhanas) and Alaska Sports Car Club level races. For the truly hardy, winter brings a season of ice races. Roads are few, and of variable quality, and can be snow covered any time from October through April. To compensate, the scenery is breathtaking.

I have owned five Porsches, including 914-4 and 944 types, and currently drive a 1989 C4. I bought this car purposefully for Alaska, and so far it has proven more than capable for the variable conditions. For winter driving I mount a second set of stock wheels with studded snow tires, and resign myself to washing the car frequently (indoors!). This past summer we enjoyed several spectacular drives along the coast and in the mountains; the fantastic acceleration helps pass the countless motorcoaches and campers with ease. The car continues to impress me. It is easily the fastest car I have driven on the street, and except for the few 930's, Ferraris, and Vipers that spend most of their time indoors, it is likely among the fastest cars in the state. The C4 helps make up for the few chances I get to drive my other motor toy: a single-seat sports racer with open cockpit. I raced this car extensively in Texas and look forward to a complete tear-down during the long off season here. In the past I have raced a 914, Fiat X1/9, and BMW 2002. The final vehicle in our menagerie is a Suburban, equipped to tow the race car trailer, with a 7.4 litre V8. In addition to driving, I have also worked as a race official, from flag marshal (local club events to F1 at Silverstone, Lemans, and IMSA) to corner captain (TransAm). My library runs heavily toward racing annuals, mechanical guides, and marque books. I guess you can say I am a motor sports fan.

I have done most maintenance and repair work myself in the past, and really feel like I own a car only after spending a few sessions under the hood with the tools and shop manuals. Since I purchased the C4 I have been much involved in moving my family, shipping our household (including the car), and getting started with a new job and new home. Thus it was nearly six months before I had the chance, and need, to complete any work on the C4 beyond a quick oil change. During a recent business trip back to Dallas, I stopped at Zims, an independent Porsche shop and parts supplier, and bought a complete kit to adjust the valves, change the spark plugs, belts, and all the filters, and repair a few minor faults throughout the car. All told the bill came to $160.

Armed with the factory repair manual (highly recommended) I started taking things apart: rear undertray, catalytic converter shield, exhaust system, lower engine encapsulation panels, blower fan and ducts, side engine sheet metal, spark plug wires, cam covers, and spark plugs. It actually sounds worse than it is, and except for a stubborn fastener or two, it all came apart with the kind of engineering precision that makes working on these cars so rewarding. Now with the valves exposed, it was relatively easy to set the engine at TDC and adjust the lash on cylinder 1 exhaust and intake valves, with good access from under the car. After turning the engine over 120 degrees (and finding another mark on the fan-drive pulley? very clever, Porsche!), it was on to the next cylinder, and within 15 minutes the valves were all set. After changing all the gaskets and seals, along with new spark plugs, it all went back together quite neatly. A bit more work to get to the valves compared to the 914-4, but actually easier once everything is exposed.

About the same time, I noticed a warning light on the dash in the morning. A check in the owner's manual confirmed that the light indicates a potential fault in the hydraulic system, which includes not only the brakes and ABS, but also the all-wheel drive control system. The light initially came on only for a second or two, which the manual notes may be normal for a car not driven recently, but then began to stay lit longer and longer. At first I thought to simply bleed the complete system, but found out that bleeding can only be done with the factory diagnostic tool that plugs into the port in the passenger footwell. With fears of impending brake trouble I dropped the car off at Eero Porsche, the one dealer for all of Alaska and northwest Canada. They efficiently isolated the problem as a bad pressure valve, and just as efficiently lightened my wallet of seven hundred dollars. The bill included a separate charge for air freight as they had to send out of state for the part. I also had them flush and bleed the entire system, as it can only be done with the diagnostic tool.

My most recent mechanical adventure started when I noticed the built-in lamp for the engine compartment was out. Aha, I thought, just a simple bulb replacement. I started to get suspicious when I removed the lamp and found no bulb at all. I then checked the front trunk light and found the same thing. A trip to the local auto parts store for bulbs (different front and rear), and then simply pop them in place, and done! But no, the rear bulb stays lit with the lid closed. Now what? I began to poke around in the wiring and confirmed with the electrical schematic that the contact switched on the front and rear lids, and the lights as well, are wired into the alarm system. At one point I got the rear light to turn off, but found the alarm relays clicking when I opened and closed the door. Among the service records from the previous owner are several replacements of the battery, apparently caused by a mysterious electrical fault. Could this be it? For now, I have pulled the bulbs out again but I am keen to isolate the problem. The car will also need rear brake pads before long, and as always in Alaska, it needs a good wash. I am also searching for a spacer to install a new Momo steering wheel I received as a birthday gift--more about this next time.

Running Report 2 - December 1998

I am writing this on the day after Christmas (Boxing Day?), as the family settles down from the excitement before and during the big day.  Outside, 2 to 3 feet of snow blanket the ground, and after a week of freezing fog the trees glisten with ice crystals.  The sun comes over the horizon at 10 and starts to set at 3, but at least now the days are growing longer.

Since my last report, we had 2 major snow storms.  After both, I drove the 911 before much road clearing was done, and the car has had no trouble coping with several inches of snow.  Since most of the secondary roads stay snow packed, just driving to work can get exciting.  Under these conditions, the C4 has had a change of character.  As most auto magazine reviewers described, the all-wheel drive creates a strong understeer flavor on dry pavement.  Now, however, the car corners with a decided tail-out style, especially if I am a bit ambitious about entry speed.  Still easily controlled with a bit of opposite lock, or even, sin-of-sins in a 911, a brief lift of the accelerator.  Braking remains fantastic, and the general grip of the changing road surfaces (with Nokian Hakkapeliitta) tires with studs) more than adequate.  I have yet to tackle truly deep snow, but surely that time will come.

I did manage to install the new steering wheel, a Momo Competition in all black.  The Momo is about an inch smaller in overall diameter, but has a more satisfying, thicker rim and perforated leather surface that is a pleasure to hold.  The wheel mounted easily with the proper hub and hardware supplied in the kit ($206 complete), all from Ultraperformance (520-721-8787) in Tucson, Arizona, a major Momo distributor.  I did find, though, that the clearance between the rim and turn signal/wiper stalks was a bit tight, especially with gloves, and so added a Momo spacer between the wheel and hub.  Jeff Furrier at Ultraperformance was able to locate a spacer for me despite none listed anywhere in North American stocks.

The major task I completed was to cure a persistent oil leak from the external tank.  I first noticed the leak when I changed the oil last summer to Mobil 1 synthetic, using 10W-30 for the summer months.  I started using synthetic oils years ago in race cars, where they provided an extra margin at high temperatures (we often saw oil temps in the range of 260-280 F during Texas summer races).  In Alaska, though, I am worried about the opposite problem: low temperatures and thick oil at start-up.  Most cars here either park in heated garages or have electric engine heaters that can be plugged into AC power.  Lacking such a heater in the C4 I talked with the Mobil 1 representative at the Monterey Historics last summer.  He recommended 5W-30 for extremely cold starts, and so far I have had no problems, even after leaving the car parked all day outside my office with temperatures around 0 F.  The thinner oil did renew the leak, however, dripping from the tank drain plug.

The day after Thanksgiving I put the back of the car on jack-stands and started into the job.  Removing the rear wheel, plastic panel in front of the wheel arch, and rocker panel exposed the thermostat housing and the bottom of the tank.  It also exposed about 2 pounds of oil-soaked dirt encrusting every surface.  An hour with solvent, soap, brush and hose cleaned up most of the mess, and pinpointed the leak at the connection of the tank and a short rubber hose leading to the thermostat.  I tried (and failed) to stop the leak by replacing the hose clamp, and so headed off to Eero Porsche (note to editor: Eero does have 2 "e's").  They did have the plastic clips I needed to reattach the rocker panel, but had to order the hose.  Three days later (and with rush postage costing almost as much as the part) I had a new hose.

The old, stiff hose came off only after being cut into pieces: now I was definitely committed.  Getting the new hose in place proved a problem, as the space between the fittings would not allow the hose to slip over one fitting and then the other.  I began to think about having to remove the tank, not a very appealing option.  The solution was to fold the hose into a tight "V" and insert both fittings simultaneously.  With much twisting and trying not to stretch or abuse the new rubber, the hose finally popped into place.  New clamps, oil fill, and test for a few days.  I saw no hint of a leak and so replaced all the external trim.  Mission accomplished!

Next up will be installing a CD player that Santa left among the toys and treats.  During a reconnaissance of the existing system I discovered the speakers in both the doors and rear shelf to be in sad shape, with torn or detached cones, likely the result of the previous life the car enjoyed in Florida.  More about the audio system, and the Florida connection, in a future report.

Running Report 3 - March 1999

Mid-March and hints that winter may end soon in Alaska: longer, sunny days, temperatures at or above freezing, and streets filled with brown slush instead of ice.  We still have a ways to go, though, with snow falling today adding to the 4-foot deep piles along the drive.  As we head toward "break-up" (i.e. when rivers frozen solid all winter break-up and flow again in Spring), I can look forward to my snowy white car turning brown from the daily drive to the office.  Still , I would rather enjoy the car year-round than keep it locked away for 6 months.

Last month, the local PCA region did have an event that brought out a few garage queens.  Each February, the city of Anchorage celebrates a winter carnival.  Fur Rendezvous, named from the days of fur trappers, brings a week of social events, outdoor arts and sports, races of all kinds, and a parade.  In keeping with the trapper heritage, many people walked about with hats made from entire dead animals (except for 2 ladies from a local animal rights group who wore nothing save some painted-on leopard spots).  PCA member Porsches, all clean and shiny, joined other car clubs along with marching bands, student and historic groups, and local businesses for a parade through the down-town streets.  We had several 911's, a 924, a 928, and, on loan from Eero Porsche, a new C4 and a Boxster.  Other car clubs included Corvettes (who somehow were designated official transport for Miss Alaska and her court-not fair!), hot-rods, historic cars, and an incredible collection of Range Rovers.  We enjoyed a slow 1 hour tour through the crowds, with my children taking turns standing up to see out the sun roof and throw candy to the on-lookers.

After the parade, we watched a bit of the Rondy Grand Prix.  That's right-a winter race on a street circuit lined with 6-foot high walls of packed snow.  Around 30 GT and street-stock race-cars competed on a course with wildly varying traction as brushes with the "wall" scattered snow that either melted or froze depending on time of day.  Local PCA racer Dwight Bowden suffered a frustrating day in his 911 race car when his engine threw a rod out the top of the case in the first practice session.  Other Porsches, and Porsche-powered VW Bug specials carried on and put on a great show, dicing with Golfs, Nissans, and even a NASCAR-style race truck.

On the mechanical front, I have continued my efforts to deal with cold weather.  Given the success I had with synthetic engine oil, I decided to change the gearbox oil to Mobil 1.  This required 3 quarts for the main transaxle, and another 1.5 quarts for the front differential, and about an hour of time under the car.  A device to pump the oil through a hose is necessary, as there is absolutely no room to pour from a bottle.  Shifting is now much easier after sub-freezing start-up.

Concerns about cold starts lead me to check the battery up front.  What I found ruined my whole day (Porsche fanatics will understand): the stock battery, though fairly new, was leaking or venting acid.  Corrosion had attacked the surrounding paintwork, and the floor below was down to bare rusted metal.  I spent the rest of that Saturday removing the battery and trim, and restoring the paint.  Baking soda neutralized the acid.  Permatex Extend rust treatment took care of the rust I could not scrape or brush away.  Topped with primer and off-white spray enamel that nearly matches the slightly yellowed paint on the rest of the floor, the battery area looked almost as new.  But now what to do?  I did not want to re-install the same battery, or even the standard wet cell.  Even "sealed" standard batteries can vent acid vapors.  Dry cells offer a much better alternative: truly sealed, most can be mounted in any position, and offer more amps for a given size and weight.  The only disadvantage is cost: roughly 2-3 times what a wet cell might go for.  Given the work I had just invested, I splurged on a Hawker Energy Odyssey dry cell ($210).  This battery packs 470 CCA (cold cranking amps) into half the size and weight of a standard battery.  I did need to fabricate a bracket from flat aluminum stock to hold the smaller battery using the stock mounting points.  This took a bit of time, but seemed the better alternative to drilling holes in the floor, as the battery salesman suggested!  The new battery does just fine in cold starts, and I can imagine the saved weight dramatically improving acceleration times.  (I have a good imagination.

My other major work effort started with the replacement of the radio-cassette with an in-dash CD player.  Santa Claus had left a Toronto unit from Blaupunkt (German electronics for a Porsche, naturally).  My wife tells me Santa got a great deal from Continental Imports, with the Toronto model plus a steering wheel mounted remote control for $383, less a $50 rebate from Blaupunkt USA.  Installing the new unit in the dash gave me a chance to clean up the wiring from the previous installation, which had involved a separate amplifier.  At one time, the C4 also had a car phone and a radar detector with front and rear remote sensors.  Altogether, I pulled what seemed like a mile of non-standard wiring and miscellaneous connectors from inside and under the car.  The new Blaupunkt worked fine, but the speakers proved trouble.  Though high-end Boston Acoustics units, years in the Florida sun with the previous owner had delaminated the speaker cones.  Boston Acoustics was able to provide exact replacement speaker units, which meant that I could reuse the same mountings and grills, and not have to deal with replacing door panels and rear shelf.  Now it all sounds super, and I can choose between Dire Straits, Chris Issaks, or Porsche flat-6.

Running Report 4 - August 1999

For this report I get to confess to the most stupid thing I have done while driving.  In the past I have totally wrecked a 914 race car when a Miata MX-5 spun into me coming off the banking at Texas World Speedway, bent most of the valves when I over-revved the engine of another race car, and even skidded off a dirt road to put a Land Cruiser nose-down in a 5-foot deep hole.  What could be worse than these (and still makes me cringe when I remember the moment)?

It happened at a PCA Alaska region autocross (gymkhana), held in a large school parking lot.  Partly because the transmission in my race car was broken (a bad sign), and partly because I wanted to get some experience driving the C4 at the limit, I entered the Porsche.  The field included about a dozen other Porsches, mostly 911's of various years, a pair of Subarus, and some modified competition cars including a BMW and a Mazda.  On a bright summer day, each entrant took four runs against the clock on a tight first to third gear course.

I ran in the second half, after a lunch break.  My first run time was just fast enough to lead the Porsche contingent, and by my third run I had nearly matched the best time set by the BMW.  All set for the last run: last chance to go for it all!  Coming out of a fast slalom section I shifted from second, aimed for first and got--reverse!  I stabbed the clutch in, but not fast enough to avoid locking up the drive train and skidding all four wheels.  At first the shift lever was quite stuck, but then came loose as the car rolled forward. The first wave of stupidity washed over me, but receded as I finally found first gear and drove off the course.  The dread returned, though, as I ran through the gears and could not find fifth or reverse.  My friend and fellow 911 competitor Jim Grant, also master mechanic at Eero Porsche, made a preliminary diagnosis of a broken or bent shift fork and guessed at a repair cost of around $1000, most of that to cover the 9 hours of labor required to remove and replace the engine and transmission.  Still smarting, I collected my trophy, and a bit of ribbing from other club members, and drove the car home.

The following Monday I delivered the car to Eero Porsche service.  First through fourth gears seemed okay, and so I hoped for the best.  Within 48 hours Jim dashed those hopes with the news that I had chipped the teeth on at least one gear, and broken other goodies like the synchro.  Now how much?  At least $3000.  Jim later reported that the clutch disc was looking a bit thin, and should be replaced.  I considered some alternatives (used gears or entire transmission) but decided to take the conservative albeit expensive path.  At least Jim had time in his schedule, and with a business trip "outside" (i.e. out of Alaska) coming, the timing would work well.

I returned the next week to learn that the initial parts order arrived with incorrect parts that would have to be reordered.  Again, not a big problem as we were to leave in a few days for a 2 week trip around Alaska that would include some rugged roads more suited for the GMC Suburban (not to mention that 4 adults and 3 children would be a tight squeeze in the 911).  I assumed all work would be complete by our return, but parts were delayed by back orders and arrived in just in time for Jim's vacation.  With no other qualified personnel available,  another week went by,  but at least Eero provided a loaner car: not a Porsche, but a new VW Jetta (Vento?).  Finally, my car was ready, and with miscellaneous items the bill came to just over $4000.  At least my 10% PCA discount saved me $400.  In the end, the most expensive 6-inch trophy I have ever won.

With the C4 back at home, I have been able to catch up on some needed maintenance.  Most recently, I treated the car to a thorough cleaning in and out.  The white paint especially needed attention, with many small tar and embedded dirt spots and local streaking.  On a whim, I tried a lump of special paint cleaning clay.  Here in the States, several vendors offer this clay; mine came from Griot's Garage (1-800-345-5789) at $30 for the clay plus a bottle of Speed Shine liquid to act as a lubricant.  I was sceptical at first, but started rubbing the clay as directed.  With a small lump and a spray of lubricant, I could feel the dirt embedded in the paint.  After a few strokes, though, the clay glided smoothly over the surface, and all visible dirt was gone, even the small tar specks.  Overall, the paint looked much brighter and most of the streaks were gone.  A bit of rubbing polish took care of the remaining streaks and a few scratches, and I finished up with some hard wax, also from Griot's.  The C4 looks as good as I have ever seen it, and is ready again to face the roads and weather of Alaska.

Running Report 5 - December 1999

Winter arrived months ago in the arctic, with the first major snow in late October.  For the C4, winter means a switch to studded snow tires, and a return of the tail-out rally-style handling.  The car remains as much fun to drive in the snow, except that the horse power that seems "adequate" in the summer, now feels excessive, even with all-wheel-drive traction.

We had some great Alaska drives in the autumn months.  First up was a group tour planned by the local PCA region president.  We arrived at the designated meeting site, a scenic view point along the Turnagain fjord south of Anchorage, but found no other Porsches.  By the way, Turnagain was named during the voyage of Captain Cook to Alaska.  While searching for the northwest passage, he had to "turn again" when the fjord turned out to be a dead end.  A quick call to town confirmed that the tour had been postponed--though nobody notified us.  Feeling adventurous, we continued on solo.  Further along the fjord, we stopped to watch beluga whales chasing salmon.  Then through the mountains and on to the town of Hope on the far side of the fjord, where we had lunch in the only cafe before returning home.  A few weeks later, the club indeed hosted a tour.  This time we joined several 911's, a 930, a 968, and a 924 for a fun day through the mountains of the Kenai.  These few autumn weeks present the best driving of the year, with beautiful scenery and no summer tourist traffic.  We stopped several times before lunch including a chance to line the cars up for a photo shoot at Turnagain pass. 

On the mechanical front, I completed the annual valve clearance adjustment without much trouble, spreading the job over 2 days.  I did find the plastic clips that hold the spark plug wires to the lower valve covers broken.  The local dealer did not have any in stock, so the car went back together sans clips.  The clips did finally arrive a week later, so perhaps in another year...

The more adventurous repair saw me stripping all the intake system off the engine!  Since first owning the car, I have been annoyed by a slight oil leak from somewhere on top of the case.  No oil actually drips on the garage floor, but enough leaks to keep the front and side of the engine "wet" and collecting dirt.  A recent article in Excellence magazine about solving a similar leak inspired me.  I made a few inquiries about the feasibility of doing this repair with the engine installed (including to the Pelican Parts e-mail tech site, a great resource) and all responses were positive.  So on a Saturday morning, I started removing bits: hot air blower and ducts, air filter and housing, air flow sensor, right side intake, throttle body, and left side intake.  Not much to it, as long as you remember where all the wires, cables, and hoses go.  A factory repair manual helps, especially backed up with a book of factory parts diagrams and a few sketches or instant photos made during disassembly.

With the top of the case exposed, I removed the components most likely to leak.  These include the oil temperature sensor, and the mounting flange for the temperature and pressure sensors.  The flange fits into a circular cavity (home to the oil thermostat on pre-964 engines) and is sealed by a rubber O-ring.  In my case the O-ring was hard and flattened.  In addition, who ever had installed the flange last had caught a clump of greasy dirt under the flange and bent the lip.  I did the best I could to straighten the lip, while holding my breath trying not to crack the cast aluminum.  With a new O-ring and new sensor, I began the assembly.  One other surprise: the throttle body, especially the lower cross tube, contained a bit of oil.  Most likely, a previous owner had over-filled the oil tank at some point, which can induce oil flow into the intake.  After flushing the oil out, everything went back together easily, and the engine even started on the first try.  I did a wash of the engine and have since checked for leaks, seeing what I hope is only a bit of residual oil.

Most recently, Shirlee and I again hosted the PCA Alaska region Christmas party.  We had a great time visiting and talking about past and future club events, but somehow at the end of the evening, I had been elected region Vice-president for the coming year.  Even worse, Shirlee had been elected Secretary.  Now, like it or not, we are dedicated to a full slate of Porsche activities in the coming year--stay tuned for future reports.

Running Report 6 - April 2000

The seasons have finally changed in Alaska-time too for summer tires (Dunlops) and to put away the studded Nokians for a few months.  Once again, the C4 reverts back to a neutral to understeer character.  Of course, driving on dry pavement instead of ice tends to inhibit oversteer.  On the plus side, the level of grip is so much better that the full potential of Porsche handling comes through.

Time also for a seasonal oil change, from 5W-30 to 10W-30, both Mobil 1.  My records show just over 2000 miles since the last change, but that includes the entire winter with cold conditions where the motor (and oil) seldom get truly warm.  I have also used Mobil 1 0-W-30 in winter, but was advised by a Mobil rep that it was not really necessary for the "mild" Arctic climate of south-central Alaska.

My most significant Porsche episode since my last report came in February.  Driving to my office in the early (and very dark) morning, the engine skipped just before turning on to the highway.  Fortunately, I stayed on the frontage road, because another hundred yards and the engine began a serious misfire.  A few seconds later, it stopped, only to return again.  The more I drove, the more frequent the miss occurred until I could barely maintain forward progress.  As the last minute, I turned off in front of a fancy coffee-espresso shop, and it quit altogether.

While phoning Eero Porsche service and the tow company, a good friend and co-worker stopped in for his morning coffee.  A lucky break for me, as I now had a ride to the office.  My luck started to turn sour later on, though.  Eero service called at the end of the day to say they could not get the car started, but based on the symptoms thought a bad distributor was to blame.  This could be replaced with a new unit for only $900.  Ouch!  We made a few phone calls and found an after market rebuilder who could supply the same twin-head distributor for half-price, and deliver it to Alaska in 2 days.

Thus I was even more disappointed when the new unit made no difference.  Only when the Eero mechanic switched wires from the twin coils to the distributor would the car run, but poorly.  We talked about how the problem came on, and I recalled that the engine system warning light had flicked on and off just before the first miss.  Not much to go on, but they continued to experiment.  The next diagnosis: bad coil on the primary circuit.  Another special order, and two days later my luck improved: it works!  The bill for parts (coil plus rotor) came to $105, but the labor to trace the problem came to $500, though I must admit that they billed more for only a portion of the time they invested.

I have had no problems since then, but it has shaken my confidence a bit.  Still, although modern electronic systems can let us down catastrophically (and unpredictably), the frequency of problems compared to the old points-plugs-carburettor technology is much, much lower.  I have fixed and lived with both generations of Porsches, and much prefer the modern, especially for a daily driver.  Anyone care to debate?

Running Report 7 - October 2000

It has been nearly six months since my last report, and the 911C4 has been through quite a bit in that time.  From a 2000 mile trip across Alaska and Yukon, to intense competition in the local PCA region autocross series, most mechanicals have held up well, with a couple of significant exceptions.

Prior to the long road trip, Eero Porsche checked and recharged the air conditioning system.  Now it would seem like we have little need for A/C in Alaska, but summer temperature in the interior typically range into the mid-eighties Fahrenheit, and occasionally reach the mid-nineties.  I was also concerned that the compressor would not even engage, but the system has a cut-out switch that will not send power to the clutch if the refrigerant pressure is too low.  After the service, the system worked fine and proved useful even in local summer traffic.

Some bad fuel on the trip also induced a hard starting problem.  Where the car had always started on the first, short twist of the key, it began to require 2 or 3 attempts, and then often ran roughly for a minute or two.  The tech advisor at Pelican Parts (www.pelicanparts.com) suggested a dose or two of Chevron's Techron additive.  After the first treated tankful the problem was greatly reduced, and within 2 weeks, things were back to normal.

The next challenge came in the form of a mysterious engine misfire or severe hesitation.  At first it happened rarely, just a quick skip at light throttle, usually at around 2000-2500 RPM.  Over a few weeks it became more pronounced, to the point where the engine would lose all power for a few seconds, and then resume running.  After the car nearly stalled driving home one evening, it seemed time for action.

Back at Eero Porsche, the Bosch "hammer" checked the on-board electronics, but found no recorded faults.  They suggested the cylinder head temperature sensor could be at fault, but did not have a spare in stock.  I took the car home, still running with an occasional miss, and decided to query the internet.  I have been a member of the Rennlist e-mail discussion group (www.rennlist.com) for many months, and posted a plea for suggestions based on the symptoms.  The replies (over a dozen) focused on DME system problems (DME relay, sensors, dirty connectors, or the "brain" itself), spark plug wires (apparently the subject of a Porsche Technical Service Bulletin), the dual distributor, especially the rubber belt, and a few miscellaneous items like the fuel pump.  Bruce Anderson also kindly replied to my e-mail and highlighted the distributor belt.

Based on all the generous information, I ordered new spark plugs and wires, distributor rotors and caps, and a DME relay, from Vertex (305-442-2727, www.vertexauto.com).  With the lowest advertised prices, the total with shipping came to about $580.  I also ordered a new oil thermostat insert from Carlsen Porsche (650-856-6300) for under $100.  In addition to the misfire, the engine seemed to run hot at times, although the front oil cooler fan never switched on.  A quick check confirmed that hot oil was not circulating to the cooler, a common problem when the thermostat fails.

Over a 2 week marathon session, I replaced all the ignition parts listed above, while also performing a seasonal oil and filter change and valve adjustment.  The spark plug wires (12 on a 964!) proved tedious, as many brackets and sub-assemblies need to be removed, especially on the right side.  With the A/C compressor aside, I found the rubber boot on the number 4 cylinder intake nearly pushed off the manifold, due to interference between the worm clamp and the compressor.  I also disconnected all electrical plugs and flushed them with contact cleaner spray, including the main DME plug under the left hand seat.  Finally, I confirmed that the distributor drive belt was in good shape, and the timing between the twin rotors was in spec.

Work on the thermostat proved more difficult.  With the oil drained out, I removed the entire thermostat assembly from inside the right wheel well.  This requires dis-connecting 2 rubber hoses and 3 high pressure metal lines.  The thermostat itself is retained in the aluminum casting by a cir-clip, but after removing this the assembly would not slide out, apparently corroded in place.  A quick call to Carlsen, and an entire new unit was on the way ($293).  What they forget to tell me is that the fittings had been updated and required different rubber hoses to connect to the oil tank.  Another $32 (and $38 for overnight delivery!) and I finally had all the right parts.  Be advised that the compression fittings for the high pressure lines require a 36mm open end wrench, but unlike pre-964 models the male threads on the thermostat are formed on steel inserts and pose a much reduced risk of stripping.  Everything went back together nicely, with only a minor leaked fixed by retightening the upper compression fitting.  Later I confirmed that hot oil was now indeed reaching the front cooler, and the fan switched on as required.

Finally, I could not resist a couple of changes.  First, I elected to leave off the lower engine tray, as recommended by Bruce Anderson and others.  Along with the tray, I stored the side encapsulation panels and related hardware.  Next, I replace the secondary muffler (inside the right wheel well) with a "power tube" by AJ-USA (858-452-8900, www.ajusa.com)  At $350 for what is basically a stainless steel u-shaped pipe, this seems a bit expensive, but does connect the stock primary muffler to the standard exhaust tip, fits perfectly, and costs quite a bit less than a complete new system.

And the results?  So far, the engine mis-fire has been cured.  In fact, the power is now much smoother at the lower end, especially with light throttle from 1500-2500 RPM.  I cannot say for sure which of the parts replaced might be responsible, or if a possible intake air leak around the manifold boot was to blame, but I am very happy to have a well-running engine again.  The exhaust change is also a pleasure.  I can now hear the exhaust, but it makes a pleasant baritone sound, much more "Porsche"-like.

As I mentioned in my last report, with Shirlee and I both elected as officers in the PCA Alaska Region (www.pca.org/ak/), we have been much more involved in regional activities.  Over the summer, we attended monthly dinner meetings, joined an overnight tour, helped to organize a driving school, admired fellow members' cars at two concours events (including one that hosted the Round the World in 80 Days rally group when it came through Anchorage), and drove the C4 in 5 of 6 region autocross events.  In the end, I managed to just claim first overall in the season Porsche Cup, by less than 0.2 points out of 400 over fast Mike Levy who drives a similar white C2.  Quite exciting, especially as the all-wheel-drive is not well suited for most autocross driving--buts that's a topic for another time!

Running Report 8 - April 2001

The seasons keep turning in Alaska, and the C4 keeps running along, mostly without trouble.  In fact, the odometer just rolled past 100,000 miles.  Not bad for a car that many people assume is only a few years old.  Of course, we all know that while these cars age gracefully, they still age.  On the plus side, the engine hesitation and surging I wrote about in the last report has not returned, and I feel fortunate to have cured the problem on my car.  I have received several e-mail messages from others that have similar problems, but struggle to find the cause.  As posted on Rennlist, some 964 series owners have changed all sorts of electrical and mechanical components only to have the hesitation and power loss return.  I wonder if we are seeing a characteristic flaw with these cars

The problem I did have was with the power steering.  Now I know the 911 purists out there will huff, and say, "Serves 'em right; who needs power steering on a proper Porsche?"  But (1) it was not my idea, talk to the folks in Stuttgart, and (2) for power steering, the system is nearly ideal, providing abundant road feel and relatively modest assist.  In any case, the problem showed up the day after we drove in the Anchorage Fur Rendezvous parade with the other entrants from the Alaska region of the Porsche Club of America.  We have participated in the parade for many years, and this year won 2nd place in the car club division.  My children love the parade because they get to stand with their heads out the sunroof and throw candy to the crowd.  Now the parade requires lots of slow, stop-and-go driving that may have precipitated the problem: suddenly, and obviously, the car lost the steering assist.

I checked topside, and still had plenty of fluid.  I then went below, pulled off the right side wheel, and looked in the inspection hole at the base of the housing for the rubber belt.  I could see the belt, and it looked OK, so I assumed it was in place.  Consulting with friend and Eero Porsche mechanic Jim Grant, we guessed that the pump had failed.  I now anticipated an expensive fix.

On the next weekend, I decided to take one more look.  Off came the wheel again, and this time I removed the cover to the belt housing.  The problem was now obvious: the big bolt that holds the power steering drive pulley to the end of the cam shaft had loosened and backed-off enough for the pulley to first slip, and then actually tilt and release the tension on the belt.

Although the inside of the pulley looked a bit scored, as did the cam shaft end, I decided to try a desperate fix: some red Locktite on the pulley mating surface and on the bolt threads.  After letting it cure overnight, I fired it up.  The pulley wobbled a bit, but the drive belt stayed in place and the power steering was back.  I have only limited hopes that this is a permanent fix, so I ordered a new pulley and belt in case things go bad again.

About the same time, an occasional high-pitched squeal in the front right blower fan became more constant, obvious at low blower settings.  Reading fellow reporter's Mark Geraghty's tip about his similar problem prompted me to contact Mark.  He provided some details about how to access the fan motor from inside the front trunk, and as he did, I sprayed a fair amount of WD40 into the motor.  Just like that: no more squeal.

The next few months also hold other impending mechanical adventures.  I successfully bid for a set of new reproduction Cup 1 style wheels on EBay.  The vendor turned out to be Robert Hartman of FRH International, who dealt very quickly and fairly through the entire transaction and shipping process, always a challenge in Alaska.  I have ordered tires through the local Michelin distributor.  The front tires have arrived, but the rears are still in production.  In addition, I have all the parts for a complete brake system renewal, which I hope to complete before installing the new wheels.  Stay tuned for future reports.

Running Report 9 - September 2001

Another summer season has passed in Alaska, and with it the mixed blessing of dry roads filled with tourist busses and motorhomes.  Now the landscape is white and the sound track for driving is provided by the click of tire studs on the road.  The change to winter tires is even more dramatic now for me, since I finally upgraded my summer wheels and tires.  In my last report, I mentioned that I had bought a set of Cup 1 replicas on EBay.  After much research, I decided to spend the extra money and opted for Michelin Pilot Sport tires, in size 225/45-17 front and 255/40-17 rear.  You might note that these front tires are wider than the factory provided with these wheels (205/50-17), but I wanted to preserve more balance from front to rear and avoid even more understeer.  The only problem came when the local Michelin distributor told me the rear tires were not yet available in the desired size, but were on schedule to go into production.  After waiting 2 months(!) it turned out that he had listed the wrong part number, and that I was waiting for special compound race tires.  Once corrected, he had the four tires in just a few more days, and these were mounted on the new wheels.

I will admit that at least half my motivation to invest over $2000 in wheels and tires was aesthetic.  I was never that fond of the Design 90 7-spoke wheel.  The Cup 1 wheels, though, still make me smile: the 5-spoke look is perfect for the car, and the wider rims and offset perfectly fill the fender openings.  I am also very happy with the performance.  I chose the Michelins based on reviews that suggested balanced dry and wet capabilities.  The grip is much better than the well-worn Dunlops, both on the street and on the autocross course.  I had expected some degradation in ride quality but the car does not drive that way at all.  I have yet to drive in hard rain, so the final judgement will have to wait for next summer!

I also treated the C4 to a complete brake overhaul.  At least a year ago, I had noticed that the rear pads were getting thin, so I watched for advertised specials.  Performance Products provided a set of new "original manufacturer" brake disks and Mintex pads all around for $330.  On a busy weekend that also included a change of oil and filter, I got started on replacing the pads and disks.  Now, I have done this sort of thing at least a dozen times on other cars, including Porsches, and always expect that things will go smoothly.  This was true for the front wheels, where the half-worn pads came out, the callipers unbolted easily and the disks could then be changed.  At the rear, however, things got sticky-literally.  The bolts that hold the callipers to the trailing arm have recessed allen heads, and the access to the lower bolt is via a tunnel in the trailing arm.  The bolt on the right side was truly stuck.  Heaving on the wrench and even careful application of a pneumatic impact wrench would not budge it.  Such moments are true tests of patience, and reminders of all the past jobs that always involve one stubborn item that absorbs half the time and effort.  In the end, some penetrating oil, time, and an extra-long hex wrench (made by sawing the short arm off a standard allen wrench) coupled to an extended breaker bar was just enough.  With a groan (from the bolt, not me) it came loose, and the calliper finally was free.

The rest of the job went simply.  None of the callipers showed significant wear or corrosion, and the piston seals looked intact.  Even the plastic wear sensors were intact and reusable.  One secret to quiet brakes is to install new Porsche backing plates.  These are little fibre disks that have metal clips that fit into recesses in the piston, and adhesive on the side facing the back of the pads.  Their job is to eliminate squeals, and by leaving them out you risk noisy brakes.  They come in 4 distinct sizes (front upper and lower, and rear upper and lower) so take care to get the full set before getting things all apart.  The final chore was to bleed all the callipers, and flush out old brake fluid from the system.  I took the time to also bleed the clutch slave cylinder.

And the outcome?  Well, the brakes feel pretty much like before: great.  The Mintex pads might provide a touch more friction, but certainly do not dust the wheels.  My only complaint is that the new disks are showing rust around parts of the "hat" section, all the more visible with the new wheels.  If this is the result of saving a few dollars compared to genuine factory parts, then I did not get good value.  I may try to rust-proof the disk surfaces that are not in contact with the pads.

Rust on the brake disks is annoying.  Rust on the body work is frightening.  Porsche statisticians must really know their job, because as the 10-year rust-through warranty ran out, I first noticed a small rust bubble on the right-rear fender, about two inches below the very end of the side window.  Over the past year, I neglected to take action, and watched as three more spots began to turn brown through the white paint.  As these all lined up, I assumed that a welded seam was rusting.  What I found was a bit different.  There is indeed a seam, where the outer fender mounts to the inner structure, but this is higher up.  Inside the fender well is a rubber skin that covers the narrow angle between the outer and inner fender panels.  Hiding behind a flexible oil line was a small split in the rubber that allowed water to enter.  The rust was forming where the rubber skin met the metal fender.

First, to assess the damage, I cut away a short section of the rubber. Inside is a sponge-like foam, apparently once soaked with a rust preventative but now water logged.  I pulled out enough of this to expose the metal, and then scraped away all the rust.  During this process, the first blemish actually fell off the outside, leaving a 2 mm hole in the fender.  Armed with my wife's hair drier, I spent some time drying the inside cavity, before applying a rust-conversion solution.  These claim to chemically react with iron oxide and help prevent further rusting.  Once this was dry, I refilled the recess with a quality acrylic putty, building this back to the original level of the rubber skin and sealing it all around.

On the outside, I took a tiny metal brush to the blemish spots and removed enough paint to expose metal.  This I also treated with the rust solution.  Primer, and then paint were spotted into the recesses left behind.  The actual hole in the fender required a touch of body putty to restore a flat surface.  In the end, I used first some very fine grade sand paper followed by polishing compound to blend the repair into the rest of the paint.  The site is still visible, but I hope the rust has been cured.  If so, I might consider a respray of that fender (or continue to dream about a quality repaint of the entire car).

Running Report 10 - March 2002

My Porsche activities continue at hectic levels, both in and out of the garage. Last December, the Alaska Region of PCA again voted me into the presidency. As I learned last year, the job provides few perks but requires continued diligence in planning and overseeing club activities. In February we again participated in the Anchorage Fur Rondezvous parade, and took second place in the automotive division. Congrats to PCA organizers Nancy and Melissa Grant, and thanks to Rick Morrison at Eero Porsche for loaning us two new Boxsters to fill out the Porsche ranks.

I also found time to take on a number of small problems with the 964. First up was the climate control. Many owners complain about these, and since taking ownership of the car, mine never worked quite right. With the car interior cold, the system would blow freezing air when set on the lowest temperature setting, or scorching air at any other setting. Only when the cabin warmed up would the system mix hot and cold air and blow comfortably warm. The culprit turned out to be the tiny blower fan on the back of the climate control box. This fan draws cabin air over a temperature sensor that feeds the electronic control.

Getting to the fan is a small challenge. The climate unit slides into the dash face like the audio unit, and has a similar release mechanism triggered by inserting the prongs of appropriate tools (or large nails) into the 2 holes on either side of the face plate. Unlike the audio unit, though, the controls mounted on the steering column prevent the climate unit from sliding completely out. It does move enough to provide access under the dash to unplug and unbolt the tiny fan unit. Once out, I confirmed that mine would run only when manually prodded into action, so off to order a replacement ($127 from Zims, wwww.allzim.com, 817-267-4451—ouch!). Once in hand, it all went together again easily, and the climate system works like new again, providing mixed air and moderate temperatures right from start-up.

Next up was the battery. On coldest days, the engine showed a growing reluctance to turn over. Three years ago I installed a compact high-tech dry cell (Running Reports July 1999). This turned out to be a bit undersized, and the Alaska climate was taking its toll. I still prefer a truly sealed battery, and so selected a full size Optima battery (#34, $120 from a local supplier). Mounting the Optima required a bit of fiddling with the stock clamp, but the electrical fitting proved more challenging. The standard battery has posts near the edge of the top surface. The Optima has posts near the center. Unlike most cars (as always), the Porsche cable fitting is a massive rigid casting that clamps onto the positive post. This will simply not reach any post not in the stock location.

I experimented with several solutions and ended up making an extension to provide a post nearer to the edge. I cut a length of thick brass bar stock and added a hole with slot to clamp onto the Optima post. On the other end I bolted and soldered a brass post for the stock cable clamp. Wrapped in insulation, everything fits neatly under the floor board. The Optima battery provide more than enough power even on the coldest days, and the sealed design guarantees no leaks of acidic vapors.

I also found time to think about another recurring problem: water in the engine oil. I first found this during an oil change years ago, when about 0.5 fluid oz/15 ml of water drained with the oil from the external tank. Conversations with several experts, including Porsche dealer mechanics, convinced me that this was not that unusual, especially in cold climates. Synthetic oil seems to make this worse, as it resists combining with water more than standard oils. In any case, water (presumably contaminated with acids and other nasty stuff) in the cooling system is bad news. Among other problems, it sits in the lowest point: the cast fitting that houses the oil thermostat, and can accelerate corrosion of the mechanism that controls flow to the front oil cooler. I have already replaced this assembly once (Running Reports, February 2001). For the short term, I have decided to periodically drain the water by loosening the drain plug about one turn. This allows the water to seep out by capillary action along the threads. When the water stops dripping, the oil stays in place and I tighten the plug again.

Some other tasks have been minor: adjusting the window frame on the drivers door to provide better wind seal at speed, and replacing the Momo logo horn button on my after market steering wheel with a Porsche crest button. Even though Momo stopped supplying these several years ago, I found a new source in the U.S. ($29 from Schatz Motorsport, www.schatzmotorsport.com, 805-482-7278). The rust repairs I described in my last report are holding firm.

Of course, a new problem is emerging. When started from cold (i.e. outside, below freezing) something in the engine compartment makes a brief, loud shrieking sound. At first I thought belts, but even with fan and alternator belts removed, the shriek persists. Comments on Rennlist have suggested the power steering belt, or the power steering pump itself. Time for some more mechanical detective work.

Finally, this report marks the tenth I have written over a bit more than three years and 17,000 miles. In that time I have never regretted Porsche ownership, and despite some significant cash outlays, the lack of significant depreciation of vehicle value balanced against the joys of driving, and even the (mostly) fun garage sessions, provide exceptional value. I really appreciate how this magazine supports Porsche ownership in general, and the 964 series in particular. As recent articles have shown, these Porsches are much better than their reputation, and still my favorite blend of classic 911 styling and modern mechanical design.

Running Report 11 - October 2002

Winter has arrived in a hurry this year. Perhaps because the last weeks of summer and our brief autumn were warmer that usual, the cold now seems more intense. In any case, most Alaska Porsches have gone into hibernation, and once again I have to adjust to winter tires and icy roads.

Since my last report, I have tackled three major jobs. First up was the driver’s window frame. I first noticed a slight whistling sound from above my ear at highway speeds. Slight pressure on the window would change the pitch, and led me to inspect the fit of the window frame in the door opening. Sure enough, the gap along the top of the frame was larger at the rear than at the front. This led in turn to looking at the door closure height. Probably from age, the door closed slightly lower than the profile of the rear fender. To fix this, I raised the door strike slightly, and adjusted the fit to match the door and fender profile. This helped but did not eliminate the uneven gap above the window frame. The fix for this was to adjust the frame in the door, with easy access to the allen head bolts hiding behind the black plastic covers in the rear edge door panel. This initial repair cured the whistling but created a slight rattle inside the door. I tried to live with this for a week or so, but it finally got the better of me. So off came all the door hardware and the interior panel, and enough of the plastic sheeting to get inside the door. When I raised the frame, it meant the window mechanism no longer had tension with the window fully raised. Again, it was easy to loosen a few bolts and shift the mechanism slightly to restore the tension. The final result has been noise-free for several weeks.

Next up were the head lamps. I have never been that fond of the US-spec H5 lamps standard on this side of the Atlantic. Unlike the rest-of-world design, ours have a large gap all around the lens that allows water and debris inside the housing. More important, the light output did not please me, even with upgraded halogen bulbs. Finally, this lens surface has 3 funny little raised nubs, mandated by US law to match with mechanical aiming devices (not that most vehicles around here have properly aimed lights). When one of the original lenses received a nasty hole from a stone, I decided it was time to upgrade to H4 lamps. In the end, buying 2 complete H4 assemblies cost about the same as one H5 lens-reflector piece. I found mine on Ebay, offered by RGR Autoparts of Winnipeg, Canada (www.rgrautoparts.com) for US$210 plus shipping. The H4 lamp is an easy bolt-in swap for US 911’s with 2 complications. The first is the electrical connector. This has to be changed to fit the H4 bulb. I bought a pair of connectors from AJ-USA (US$9), and after cutting off the original connector I crimped and soldered the new ones on after making sure I had the right wires in the right position. The second complication is the trim ring. The H4 units are offered with either a chrome ring or matte black painted ring. While the unit can be completely disassembled and the black ring painted, I opted for a second set of trim rings that fit over the first (US$78). I had these painted in Grand Prix white, and installed them with a special retaining screw that actually screws into the center of the hollow single screw that fixes the lamp itself in place. While deeply involved in head lamps, I elected to upgrade the H4 bulbs to the latest high output offerings from PIAA. In the end, I have much improved lighting, a lamp assembly that seals out the weather, and a front end that has a more authentic Porsche look.

The final task involved rust repair. In a previous Running Report (December 2001), I described how I discovered and tried to repair a small rust-through spot in the right rear fender. Although I knew my repairs were temporary, I was disappointed to see the rust continue to bubble up in most of the spots I had fixed. Once again, I considered having the fender properly repaired and repainted at the body shop, and once again I decided to wait until I could have the entire car repainted. So it was time to make another “temporary” repair, though this time I would try harder. Surprisingly, the one spot that actually had rusted through completely last time did not show any further rust, so I decided to be more aggressive this time. After picking at all suspect metal at each rust bubble, I ended up with a series of small holes (see photo 1). This might seem like the end for this fender, but I take heart in my luck with the previous repair. The holes mean that most of the rusted metal is now gone, and provides more complete access for the rust-conversion liquid I applied next. After drying completely, I then filled the holes with 2-part plastic filler, and sanded smooth (photo 2). At this point I still had a series of isolated blemishes, but by the time I sprayed primer and sanded again, it was turning into a larger patch. Now I faced the challenge of either painting the entire panel, or trying to blend a small area into the intact paintwork. Still feeling optimistic, I committed to the later. Success required matching spray paint, but Porsche does not supply such a useful item. Around here, the DIY autoshops stock small spray cans by Duplicolor, but not with any reference to Porsche colors. Thus began the quest for the closest match. You might think that white is white, but even the slight differences in shade and tone become apparent under changing light. What might look good in the garage glares distinctly different in sunlight. In the end, I purchased and tested 12 shades of white to find a decent but not perfect match (photo 3). The final step required painting a larger area, so that color sanding and polishing would blend the repair into the original paint. In the end, I think I turned out a serviceable, but still temporary repair (photo 4).

That’s all for now, but next time I expect to report some big changes for me, my family, and the trusty C4.

Running Report 12 - ? 2003

Last time I promised news of big changes for the Krantz family, and not much escaped change around here. First, we picked up and moved 3000 miles across the continent, leaving chilly Anchorage for sweaty Houston. Although we were all reluctant to leave Alaska, career goals (like having a steady pay check to pay for indoor housing, not to mention Porsche toys) took precedence. Over a two month period, we sold one house, bought another, sent the C4 along with our other goods to be shipped, and headed south.

On the plus side, I no longer need snow tires. In the negative column is an overwhelming need for air conditioning at least six months of the year. And so to prepare the car (and me) for the infamous sauna-like summers of Houston, we made one more trip to Eero Porsche in Anchorage. First on the list was to check and recharge the a/c system. Unfortunately, my car still had the original R12 components. In order to handle the new age R134A refrigerant required the Porsche conversion kit. The kit includes new pressure valves, o-rings, receiver-dryer, and an all-important decal. With labor, this cost over $750. At least it gave me some hope of dealing with the anticipated heat, but the a/c story continues below.

While at Eero, I asked them once again to check into the engine misfire fault. Since my last report, the misfire had reappeared, occurring as a subtle miss or surge at light throttle.
I tried replacing the oxygen sensor, easy to do with the exhaust out of the car for valve adjustment access. I bought the part through Eero and paid dealer price, but used the $100 discount certificate PCNA sent to all PCA members in 2002, so the out-of-pocket cost was $94. I also changed out the cylinder head temperature sensor. This lives on the forward side of the left hand cylinder bank, with access through a plug in the engine sheet metal behind the wheel. To install the new sensor requires a special tool, essentially a deep reach socket with a groove cut in the side for the sensor wire. I made my own with an old socket and a grinding wheel (see photo 1).

In the end, though, the misfire persisted. At Eero, master tech Jim Grant checked through all systems, included the stored on-board faults and found nothing definitive. He did, however, find a suspicious inconsistent signal from the air flow meter. This device lives just inside the air-filter box and measures the volume of air intake. With a promise that I would not have to pay for the new part if it did not cure the problem, Jim installed a new meter ($537 plus $255 for labor, including the diagnosis). I could not be happier! After all the possible cures I have tried (some of which probably did contribute to the result) the car runs steady as a rock. Now 4 months later, I have not had a single miss-fire. I did bring the old meter home, and popped off the plastic cover. The small electrical contact pins wear a series of arcs as the meter flaps rotates (see photo 2). It looks to me like the fixed contact surface has some uneven wear and pitting, right about in the spot I imagine the moving contacts to be at light throttle.

And so, I thought all was prepared for our new life in Houston. About one week after we moved into the new house, the car arrived on a truck-transporter. Unfortunately, it had been loaded on the lower level, and a mini-van voided some nasty oil on the engine lid. Once we freed the car from the transport, I did a quick check and then a brisk wash and wax. Within days, driving the Porsche felt normal again, as I explored new routes to the office. Unfortunately, we also saw a few days of temperatures above 80 F, and when I switched on the a/c got nothing but warm air. Once again, the system had leaked and the pressure switch prevented the compressor from engaging. And so began my first quest for repairs in Houston. Next time I will relate all the details, but let me close with my initial frustration: the dealer closer to my office, Advantage Porsche, refuses to work on cars that predate the mid-90’s. I am not sure what PCNA or the home office thinks about this, but is seems to me to send a discouraging message.

Running Report 13 - August 2003

As I write this we have sweated through our first summer in Houston. Nothing like near tropical heat and humidity for weeks (or is that months?) on end to make you question life and career decisions. At least I can retreat into my newly finished garage palace: 1000 square feet (100 square meters) with workshop area, insulated walls, epoxy-painted floor, and, most decadent of all, air conditioning. I know from a previous stint in Texas that A/C is necessary at least half the year, when garage temps routinely exceeded 100F (40C).

Speaking of air conditioning, last time I reported that during my last service in Alaska, I had the dealer install the factory refrigerant conversion kit, but that soon after arriving in Texas, the system ceased making cold air. After talking with local PCA members, and getting some recommendations from Rennlist, I decided to try an independent shop, Eurocar-Werk. From my initial phone conversation, they seemed to understand 964’s, and could start on the car as soon as it was convenient for me. After dropping off the car, they did start right away, but then called with bad news. Seems like as soon as they recharged the system, with enviro-friendly R-134a, they detected leaks from several places. They even claimed that the leak detector sounded the alarm from several feet away! In the end, they replaced both high and low pressure hoses, several O-rings and seals, the evaporator core, and the receiver-dryer. With labor, and a system recharge, the total bill came to $3227—ouch! I really had to question the wisdom of making this investment in an older car, but rationalized the cost as, first, necessary to continue driving the Porsche through the 6 months of Houston summer, and second, vital if I ever want to resell the car locally.

Outside of the price, I was satisfied with service at Eurocar-Werk, until a few weeks later. I noticed that my feet were getting hot, despite the now-functioning A/C. Even with the climate control on full-cold, the left-side footwell vent was blowing very hot air. I pulled the plastic cover from above the fuel tank, inside the front trunk, and found all the servos and links that control the ventilation system working properly. (See the great summary by Roly Baldwin on John Miles’ 964 web (www.porsche964.co.uk). Back to Eurocar-Werk, where they found and fixed a loose junction in the ducting. In the more automated 964 system, hot air is always flowing from the engine heat exchangers. If the interior system does not call for heat (and if there are no leaks) the positive pressure deflects the hot air out through vents that live in the rear wheel wells. What disappointed me at Eurocar-Werk was that they insisted on charging me an additional $65 for the repair, despite the chance that they had knocked something loose during replacement of the evaporator core (and the enormous bill I paid last visit). In any case, I now have a fully functioning system that does an adequate job of making cold air, even on the hottest days.

Next up was the suspension. During earlier investigations around the engine, I spotted what looked like a broken rubber bushing on the inside pivot of the left trailing arm. The bushing is not available separately, so I bought a new arm (Carlsen Porsche, $299, including shipping). The replacement went fairly easily, except for somewhat stubborn (and large!) hardware that holds the suspension together. I also decided that with at least one corner of the car apart, it was time to replace the original dampers. I found a web special on Bilsteins (www.shox.com, $659), and since the base-level Konis are no longer available, it would be the yellow struts. Changing these out took an entire weekend, with a few challenges and complications along the way. First, removing the front struts requires disconnecting the front brake lines, which in turn means bleeding the system after reassembly. Second, on both my front struts, the top strut restraining nut refused to loosen, preferring to strip off the corners and require drilling out. As this ruined the stud that is part of the strut shaft, it was fortunate that these were already destined for the trash bin.

Like the stock units, the Bilsteins provide for a modest amount of ride height adjustment with threaded spring perches. I set the fronts as low as possible, and the rears slightly lower than the original set I had removed. The result thus shows a stance much like before. I kept the original springs partly to save money, and also to keep the car eligible for stock class in local autocross competition. The final step was a 4-wheel alignment ($200). The car feels much more firm, even a bit jarring over sharp bumps, but definitely more in control. It should be more fun in competition; I am looking forward to some local club events once the weather cools off.

Finally, as you can see in the photo, the 964 has assumed a new role: transport for another wheeled vehicle. I am fortunate to have time during lunch on some weekdays to ride mountain bikes with a group from my office. Yes, even in urbanized Houston, we have access to some wonderful dirt trails, and riding is a great daily tonic for relieving stress (and getting some exercise). My biggest challenge was how to transport my bike. I explored several options, but selected a Yakima roof rack that mounts to the anachronistic 911 roof gutters with soft-faced clamps. By placing the rack to the rear, and removing my bike seat, I can even drive into my garage at home, but I still have to remember to watch for low clearance as I drive around. Best of all, though, might be the strange looks I get in my ultimate sport-utility vehicle.